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Paul Woollard 's Locust

Paul Woollard My Build - Completed 25 November 2002

My first outing after the SVA in 2002

MWV 293J yes an age related plate and tax-free at least the SVA did something for me.

Well this could be a long story as I started the car back in 1991 but due to working abroad for 5 years in America were by the way we did take the car over for 2 years but worked on the stables and the horses etc. also restoring a Ford F350 1 tonne dually in the mean time did not get around to finishing it. I finally started the real build in earnest during 2000 in which time I got the car running and found I was not happy with some things. I made life difficult for myself, as I wanted disk brakes all-round & 2-litre Pinto, which means chassis mods and a lot of finding positions for things. I also had to be careful, as I knew I would need to pass the SVA. I would say that the SVA only found two safety related items that I had missed due to not having a ramp at home some loose brake pipes. Also an imbalance between front and rear brakes which could have caused the car to swap ends in extreme braking, which can only be checked with their test equipment correctly. All the other items were silly like removing the 7's seen in some of my older pictures and filing the edge of lights removing the choke & making labels for dash etc.

A Car is born

Registration Number

The DVLA would not allow me to keep the original registration number form the Donor vehicle although they did give me an age related plate

Rear Brake system.

I started with a fiesta front brake system (two sets of calliper on each wheel one for hand brake and one for main brakes) fitted to the rear which passed the MOT with hydraulic hand brake, but the SVA did not like it so ended up with a Peugeot brake disk and Sierra 4x4 calliper standard sierra cable (please remember my car is 4 inchs longer than a standard Locust as T&J Sports cars made me a special chassis and I added 4 inched to the wooden tube.

 

I used a mini hand brake leaver and made a nice alloy cover to comply with the SVA requirements. I purchase a set 4 pot Wildwoods calliper kit from Rally design that fitted inside a 15-inch alloy wheel will not fit standard wheels. Also when testing this system I could not get use to see all the front suspension moving under braking. Please see front suspension modifications for details of how I overcame this.

Front Suspension.

Firstly I removed the compression bars, which are normally fitted to the Cortina and in their place on the lower control arm fitted a clevis mounting (using two plates and some spaces utilising the holes for the compression strut to mount them. I then fabricated another bracket which mounts to the original compression strut mounting position across the through hole. I then fabricated a strut with ½" unf RH & LH threads, and purchased some ½" unf spherical seat joints this now gives you an adjustable link which can be used to set castor on the suspension and stops the suspension moving under braking. I now found that the upper wishbone would not pass the SVA with Cycle guards fitted so I set about making a tubular system using some parts purchased from LOCOST i.e. the transit track rod ends and threaded tube (before everyone says these will not be strong enough in the USA I was working for DANA Corp who make these parts and as it takes 14000lbs to pull one of these out of its housing. Also it is the same diameter ball as used on several cars the Cortina ball joints are way over engineered for a car that only weighs 325KG on the front axle.) For the upper wishbone I used a set of rose joints with a modified Cortina through bolt shortened and the Transit track rod end, which fits the upright perfectly. However if you are going to fit a Westfield cycle guard mounting remove about 1/8th of an inch from the upright otherwise the ny-lok nut will not grip the thread and this is a SVA fail as I found to my cost. Basically now all you need to do is make a triangle between the tree part (also note this helps getting full lock with cycle guards in place as the mountings tend to clash with the Cortina wishbone) You will see from the photo's I have attached some of the mod's if you need more info I can be contacted on paul@woollard66.freeserve.co.uk or pwoollard@fsmail.net

Front Damper

I purchased a set of west field front dampers for a pinto version as a starting point and made a set of l brackets, which I bolted to the dampers at the bottom and then bolted to the standard Cortina lower control arm. I then turned up some spacers for the top and bolted the damper into the standard Locust mounting position see photos

Rear Suspension

I have stuck so far to a Standard Locust system however I did change the springs as I got a tip from an old guy who worked on the real 7 when he was an apprentice at Lotus. He said make the front as stiff as possible and the rear as soft as possible for fast road, which I did Which means a mod to the suspension height as I am 18 stone and 6ft 5inchs tall (yes I need a shoe horn) to stop it bottoming out when I get in.

Wiring

I used a standard Escort mark 1 loom stripped cleaned repaired and shortened and then covered in convolute cover as the SVA would not except insulation tape a per the original. Also I had to modify a lot of lights supplied by White Rose and LOCOST as they did not meet the SVA requirement. They required filing to have the right radius also the head lights needed modification to the lamp housing to get them to fit direct to the nose cone which helps with the SVA as they now check the pitch .

The front motorcycle indicators from LOCOST need to be modified as the joint between the lens and the casing was to sharp see photos. I also came up with a tricky little pump cut of devise for the electric fuel pump see attached circuit diagram (SVA approved now) if this is made properly the pump stops with the engine. I can supply the diodes if anyone requires them).

Windshield not fitted for SVA

Wipers not fitted for SVA

Steering

I used an escort column and modified the end to have a quick release wheel to help me get in and out. I then purchased a mountney 10inch wheel which I modified for the SVA requirements my fitting a MoMo collapse system. The intermediate shaft I purchased the parts from Pilgrim and welded into an assembly my self

Exhaust

I used a Sierra manifold modified to come out under body and an SVA approved exhaust system from Deamon Tweeks however did have SVA noise problems which I got around did not cure please phone for info it is all to do with max power output etc. Luckily I work at a recognised SVA centre for emissions and flew through this amazing it is cleaner than a new car. I also had a stainless steel connection tube made at Southern Pipecraft, which just happens to be around the corner from my house.

Seats

I made these out of Marine ply and covered them myself with a little help from the wife on the stitching. I think they look a little more sporty than the standard modified bench seat design.

Luggage compartment

I cut a hole in the floor behind the seats and inset a box, which will eventually carry the radio etc. At present ideal for spares and tools see photos. The wife's tonneau cover not shown but was required for SVA otherwise this area is classed as exterior and failed due to belt mounting bolts & exterior projections.

Dashboard (IP)

I filed the dash to have the correct radii and then fitted foam 3 mm self adhesive from Stanton rubber products & covered with vinyl. The clocks that were outside the wheel envelope I turned up a shroud so they meet the head impact regs. I also made up some decals for the brake switch and brake light check switch

Engine

2-litre Pinto from a Sierra fitted with twin 40's and an RS2000 sump to keep the height down, using a Cortina type crank case emission system on this block lowers the engine by about 1.5" which means you do not need to mod the bonnet. I did have a problem with the starter motor I had to modify the chassis see photos to get this in with a normal pre-engaged system. I also had considerable cooling problems which turned out to be quiet funny. As I explained before the car was taken to the states and stored in a barn. When I returned home to the UK with the car I found a lot of acorns stuffed in the aperture were the water pump should go. As we had squirrels in the barn, I cleared these out and did not think anymore about it, as I had fitted a new radiator etc.

Anyway with the overheating I decided to strip the car down again and check the radiator, I found that it was completely blocked with acorns which had worked their way through the engine. I also had a problem piping the Cortina radiator if anyone can suggest a better radiator I would be very grateful. I may try a LOCOST special radiator as they do one with twin Cortina cores but this does add allot of weight. I will sort this out before the summer I hope. Again if anyone has had this experience I would be grateful of any help

Gearbox

Standard Sierra with a Westfield extension fitted to get the stick out from under the dash

Axle

Standard Escort Mark1 with 3.77 diff assy with all the usual modifications for the mounting. Although I think I will be fitting more durable bushes over the winter as I noticed that some had failed just on the short journey to the test centre. Perhaps some urethane would do the job maybe some of you have tried this I am open to suggestions.

Body Tub

I modified the body tube by routing away the non-structural area's before fitting the skin, and this will then lighten the body considerably. I also cut away large area's and made light weight aluminium covers to again reduce weight typical example is the rear under tray of the tub and the rear parcel shelf which can be used as a storage area as you can make a box between the chassis rails

Finished car

It is now all a bit of an anti climax finishing the car as it is now too cold to drive it as I did not fit a heater and am still awaiting the arrival of the wet weather gear which I intend to order over the next few weeks. I hope my photos and notes have given you some ideas and if anyone needs more detail please do not hesitate to contact me either by phone or email.

One tip is to keep every receipt especially the chassis, as this will be required by the DVLA if you want to avoid the Q plate also the logbook of the donor car to get an age related plate. I have every receipt in 3 folders (sad I know but I am an automotive engineer by trade and we are always prepared to be sued. As Joe public like nothing better than getting money for nothing as Dire Straits would say.)

Hope to see you all at Le Mans

My wife wanted to add a comment, as she has been very tolerant I thought I would let her.

From Paul's wife to all the other neglected women (at least we know where they are!!!) You can't beat them, so you find yourself getting involved & learning along the way so just join them! And together you two can have fun I think!! Ask us after Le Mans 2003

I can be contacted on

Telephone number 01903 537744

Or mobile number 07799 035499

Address

25 Grand Ave
Lancing
West Sussex
BN15 9PZ

If you are passing please call in or if I can help with turning or milling please ring and I will try to help

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